This week the world's best golfers are walking the fairways of Augusta National for the 90th Masters Tournament. The images coming out of Augusta this week are some of the most stunning in all of sports photography: the azaleas, the green jackets, the drama of Amen Corner.
But golf is also one of the most technically demanding and unforgiving sports a photographer can shoot. No continuous action to spray and pray. No second chances. One swing, one moment, one shot.
Here's what you need to know before you point your camera at a golfer.
In most sports, the action is constant. Football, athletics, boxing: there's always something happening. Golf is the opposite. You spend long periods waiting, then have a fraction of a second when the club makes contact with the ball.
Miss it, and it's gone.
Add to that the unique rules around golf photography. Silence is expected during shots, movement is restricted, and at professional events your position is tightly controlled. It's a sport that punishes any lack of preparation.
But get it right, and the results are extraordinary.
A golf swing is one of the fastest movements in sport. A professional golfer can swing at over 120mph. To freeze that motion cleanly, you need a fast shutter speed.
Recommended starting point: 1/2000s or faster
At anything slower than 1/1000s you risk motion blur on the club head and hands. For the cleanest freeze of impact, go to 1/2500s or even 1/3200s in good light.
A wide aperture (f/2.8 or f/4) gives you that beautiful blurred background that separates the golfer from the course. It also lets in more light, helping you maintain that fast shutter speed.
If you're on a budget lens with a maximum aperture of f/5.6 or f/6.3, you'll need to compensate with a higher ISO, especially on overcast British courses.
Modern cameras handle high ISO well. At an outdoor event on a bright day, ISO 400-800 is fine. On a cloudy afternoon or under tree cover, don't be afraid to push to ISO 1600 or even 3200. A sharp, slightly grainy image is always better than a blurry clean one.
Set your camera to continuous autofocus (AI Servo on Canon, AF-C on Nikon and Sony). As the golfer moves through their swing, you want the camera tracking them, not locking onto a fixed point.
At professional events, your position is largely decided for you. Photographers are restricted to designated areas. But at amateur events, club days, or charity tournaments, you have more freedom.
The best spots:
What to avoid: Standing directly in front of or behind the golfer during a shot. Beyond the obvious safety risk, the angle rarely produces a compelling image.
Golf isn't just about the swing. Some of the most powerful images in golf photography have nothing to do with club-on-ball contact.
Look for:
This matters more in golf than almost any other sport.
At professional events, read the accreditation rules carefully before you arrive. Each tour and each venue can have different restrictions on equipment, positions, and when you can shoot.
You don't need a 600mm f/4 prime to photograph golf, though it helps at professional events where you're far from the action.
What you actually need:
At amateur events and club days, a 70-200mm f/2.8 (or even f/4) is genuinely enough. You're much closer to the action than at a professional event.
The images coming out of Augusta this week are worth studying closely. Not to copy them, but to understand them.
Notice how the photographers use the course's natural beauty as a backdrop. Notice the compression of a long telephoto lens making the azaleas pop behind the player. Notice how they wait for the reaction, not just the swing.
You don't need to be at Augusta to apply those lessons. Your local golf club on a Sunday morning has the same fundamentals: light, movement, emotion, and a beautiful outdoor setting.
Start there.